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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.